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| The most brilliant hues of nature can be found in Hawaii, including the vibrant yellows, oranges and reds of lava. |
Exploring the Big Island of Hawaii
Temperamental Pele, the Hawaiian volcano goddess, simmers in the Kilauea Caldron near the south shore of the Big Island of Hawaii, the namesake of the state. Since 1983, molten lava has continuously trickled down the slopes of Kilauea in a thirst-quenching quest for water, reaching the ocean and birthing new land in a billow of steam. The lava still smolders and glows underwater as it adheres itself to the island base, a process that has grown Hawaii by more than 500 acres. A lava flow is both an act of destruction and creation.
As a “young” island, the terrain of Hawaii is constantly changing. Fourteen of the 16 major climate zones are found here, from the desert plains of Ka’u to the rainforests above Hilo, to sometimes snowcapped Mauna Kea. You could circumnavigate the globe and not see as much ecological diversity; or, like us, you could simply rent a car and experience it all on the Big Island.
Twin volcanic peaks, each nearly 14,000 feet high, are the keys to the numerous climate zones. Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa together form a massive wall, disrupting the trade winds that race across the Pacific and forcing moist air up where it cools, condenses and falls over the east side of the island. In fact, some parts of the island receive more than 300 inches of rain per year, while other areas receive virtually none.
Driving north from the Kailua-Kona region, the highway is surrounded by wastelands. Lava rock blankets the ground from up high in the east down to the shoreline west of the road. But in just a short distance, the island “ages” quickly. The black lava rock begins to gray, and shrubs and grasses begin to grow where we would have sworn they could not. Almost regularly, we pass state park signs pointing toward the coast. Short winding drives amid strewn lava rock invariably give way to secluded coves of turquoise blue water and crystal white sand beaches (though some more famous beaches feature course black sand—and even green sand!).
While many of these coves and bays are now preserved as parks, others have given rise to exceptional resorts. In fact, while swimming in just such a cove, John D. Rockefeller’s grandson Laurance cast his eyes back to shore and saw light shining down from the heavens on the nearby hillside. Instead of weathered rock and dry terrain, Rockefeller envisioned a beautiful, verdant South Pacific resort modeled after the architecture of the Polynesians living harmoniously with the surrounding lands.
Yes, the west side of the island is the dry side, but you wouldn’t know it at the Mauna Keau Resort. With lush foliage lining the greenest of fairways, golf is a prime attraction. Even non-players should take the opportunity to walk along the seaside portion of the course and take in the breathtaking panoramas of clear blue water crashing against large lava rocks beneath floral encircled greens.
In Kohala, the northern part of the island, dramatic cliffs overlook the ocean below. Kohala is also famous as the boyhood home of King Kamehameha I, the unifier of the Hawaiian Islands. On the front lawn of Hawi’s town hall stands the original commemorative statue of the king, forged in France, lost at sea, and eventually recovered by salvage divers. Every year on June 11, the statue of Kamehameha is adorned with beautiful floral leis 40 feet or more in length, and honored by a parade with representatives from every Hawaiian island.
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| Each year, the statue of Kamehameha is adorned with beautiful floral leis 40 feet or more in length. |
Well above sea level, the terrain in Kohala is forested and ripe. Rainfall over Mauna Kea and the Kohala Mountains forms countless streams and waterfalls intent on cascading to the sea. Large tracts of land have been privately preserved here, and tour companies such as Hawaii Forest and Trail specialize in revealing a more intimate side of the island. After a short ride up sloping terrain in World War II-era Pinzer jeeps, a not-too-strenuous hike rewards us with multiple waterfall discoveries and a refreshing dip at the base of one fall.
Our guide tells us of how the ancient Hawaiians lived off the land, of native plants and animals and the ever-present threat of invasive species, and even of folklore. A favorite story is that of the Ohi’a Lehua tree, and stars none other than Pele. It would appear that when the fiery-tempered goddess was spurned by the faithful mortal Ohi’a, she became so enraged that she transformed him into an old withering tree. However, Lehua, Ohi’a’s betrothed, softened Pele’s heart with her pleas, and though Pele did not return Ohi’a to human form, she did place Lehua on his branch as a beautiful red bloom so that the two lovers could remain together forever. Today, the lehua bloom is the Big Island’s official flower.
Driving east past the Kohala Mountains and around Mauna Kea, we are tempted (but opt not) to ascend Mauna Kea. At nearly 14,000 feet, Mauna Kea is arguably the best place on earth to view things not on earth. Nested at her summit are 13 mammoth telescopes and observatories—but they are reserved for scientists. At the Onizuka Center for International Astronomy (9,300 feet up Mauna Kea) visitors can star-gaze through portable telescopes, including a daytime solar telescope with protective filters. Far below, in the seaside town of Hilo, the Imolia Science Center connects the science of astronomy to Hawaiian cultural traditions—how the ancient Polynesians navigated the great Pacific and discovered and settled hundreds of islands, including the Hawaiian chain.
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| Onomea Falls at Hawaii Tropical Botanical Gardens cascades to the sea. |
With great views of Hilo Bay, downtown Hilo, Hawaii’s largest city, is perfect for walking, shopping and the freshest in dining. Virtually every restaurant proudly proclaims the use of locally grown, raised or caught ingredients. A few smaller museums are nestled in the downtown district, and very nearby is Queen Liliuokalani Gardens, Wailoa River State Park (with another statue of King Kamehameha) and Rainbow Falls State Park.
Just a short drive north of Hilo and we’re in a tropical rainforest, the wettest part of the island. At Hawaii Tropical Botanical Gardens, more than 2,000 species of tropical flowers, fruits and plants provide an abridged overview of the rich paradise of Hawaii. Just a short drive south of Hilo and we’re in very dry part of the island: Pele’s domain, Volcanoes National Park.
Located near the southern tip of the island, Volcanoes National Park is the only UNESCO World Heritage Site in the state of Hawaii. With points of interest all along the 11-mile crater rim drive, there are many areas to explore. Near the visitor’s center, rangers lead walking tours to view the smoldering Halema’uma’u Crater inside the Kilauea Caldera. At night, we’re told, a red glow can be seen from above the crater, as a pool of lava lies about 100 yards below the rim.
One of the most popular sights is the Thurston Lava Tube. Lava tubes are figuratively (and perhaps literally) the veins of a volcano. Hot magma tunnels through rock and earth in search of a crack from which to burst. When the activity passes, long tunnels, or tubes, are all that remain. The Thurston Lava Tube is one such example, and is open for visitors to walk through. The tube is huge, perhaps 20 feet in diameter, and trying to visualize the amount of magma that might have once flowed through it is mind boggling.
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| The luau is a celebration of many styles of Polynesian dance and food. |
While volcanic eruptions can occur at any time, there are currently only two active vents: Halema’uma’u Crater and Pu’u ‘O’o, where lava is currently flowing both below ground in tubes and above ground on a march to the sea. The great hiss of steam that arises from fire rock meeting water, the elders say, is Pele doing battle with her sister Namaka, the sea goddess. Destruction and creation.
To safely (and easily) view the flow, we join Lava Ocean Adventures, known for ferrying passengers to within just yards of the event. The voyage begins in the wee hours of morning so that the bright yellows, oranges and reds of the lava can be viewed against a pre-dawn sky. With a slow, thick consistency, similar to the flow of candle wax, the lava drips into the ocean, mesmerizing. Like a moth to flame, the urge to reach out and touch the lava is tempting, but we settle for immersing our hands in a bucket of drawn seawater. It is hot; closer to the lava it would scald us.
The boat turns back to shore as dawn breaks over the island, pinks and yellows of the sky briefly complimenting the hues of the lava. Long from now this new land will transform from barren black rock to lush tropical greenery. Though to the volcano goddess, this cycle of destruction and creation will surely pass in the blink of an eye. Mahalo, Pele.